Dont loose your sense of humour

8 Tips for Buying at a Builders’ Merchants

How do you act like a builder and get the best prices from your materials suppliers or merchants? Peter Eade explains

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Almost all of us will end up buying a significant portion of the building materials for our self builds or renovated homes. Everything from windows to bricks, floor coverings to cement could be handled not by our builders, but by us. Building is still in many ways a closed shop, meaning outsiders tend to get befuddled by jargon and excluded from the best deals (‘trade counters’) being one example.
As a self builder or renovator it’s important to think like a builder — and expect discounts comparable with those being offered to the trades. Here are some tips on making sure you make the most of available discounts.

Calculate Quantities and Costs

Before any work can start, all materials should be calculated and quantities listed, at least to the point where the structure is built and the roof is on. Some merchants offer a take-off service where you deposit the plans with them and they will quantify all of the materials and provide a quotation.
This may seem like a good idea, but even as a newcomer you will have a much firmer grip on the build process if you have identified and measured the quantities of materials yourself. Also, remember that the merchant who has done the calculations is, quite legitimately, going to expect to receive all of the orders. 

Know Which Merchants to Target

It’s probably worth checking what merchants there are locally and then visiting each one to get an idea of what type of products they hold in stock. There are usually a smattering of the bigger names (Jewson, Travis Perkins, etc.) and a local or regional independent. Some just have trade counters with a wide range of products much like a superstore — others have yards full of heavy-side goods, bricks, tiles and blocks.
By being aware of what each merchant sells you will know which one to visit when something is needed in a hurry. If it’s important to know the likely expenditure for all of the materials before any work begins, get in a preliminary quotation for everything from just one merchant — this may be particularly useful if you are working on borrowed funding. But don’t forget that merchant’s quotes are only current for a limited period and may well have changed by the time the orders are placed.

Open a Trading Account

As someone who will be buying in quite large quantities it makes economic sense to open a trading account. If at all possible have accounts with at least three suppliers. However, getting a credit account is not quite as easy as it once was and it may well be that the merchant will only offer a trade card. By having this card a customer’s information goes on a merchant’s system and some sort of trade discount may be available, but the discounts tend to be quite small.
If you become an account customer it’s likely you will get to know a merchant’s sales representative. Merchants’ reps work to get in orders (being incentivised to do so) and they have the authority to negotiate competitive prices.

Check for Potential Availability Problems

Before asking for quotes or placing any orders, it’s important to check there are not any availability problems — from time to time various materials have extended lead times. Bear in mind the brick, block and tile deliveries are likely to come direct from the manufacturer with a merchant only acting as the distributor.

Meet with a Sales Representative

When the time comes to get in quotations, make a quantified list of all the materials that will be required for each phase of the build process. If possible, make an appointment with each merchant’s sales representative — this way you are likely to get the most competitive quote.
It’s important to give identical information to each to ensure all of the quotations will be based upon the same quantities of the same materials. If the merchants you have accounts with don’t have sales reps then you can phone or email your quotation enquiry. Once the quotations are received, go through them and highlight the most competitive price for each item.

Ordering

There is no obligation to place all of the orders with just one trader — whoever is offering the lowest quote for each individual product should get the order. It’s possible each merchant’s quote will be followed up by a further visit from the rep or perhaps a phone call to enquire if their quote is going to be accepted.
Depending on your negotiating skills this is a good opportunity to try for further reductions — just state the truth if some items seem overpriced. Once the initial orders have been placed and the project is underway, remember to regularly check the status of the materials on site in order to ensure there are no hold ups.

Don’t Ignore Other Outlets

In addition to using builders’ merchants there are companies who specialise in specific building products; often these firms can be very competitive when it comes to buying items such as lintels, insulation, roof tiles, etc. Structural timber for the joists and roof tend to be cheaper if bought from dedicated timber merchants.
Don’t overlook the big DIY stores either — as occasionally they have loss leaders when they sell specific items at knockdown prices. One option, particularly for those living in the south-east, is a trip to the DIY superstores in Calais, where many UK self builders claim to be able to enjoy significant discounts on many items, from sanitaryware to timber.

Going Direct

Increasingly, self builders and renovators are able to buy big-ticket (and small-ticket) items directly from suppliers (some prefer this and if not they’ll put you in touch with local merchants). Again, don’t be afraid to negotiate and contact several suppliers of similar products to gain a competitive edge.
Once you’ve got detailed plans, be ready to send them off to as many suppliers as possible. That’s what a builder would do, and it’s what self builders and renovators looking to save money should do too.



SOURCE https://www.homebuilding.co.uk/8-tips-for-buying-at-a-builders-merchants/

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DONT GIVE UP

Gain planning permission for a huge extension

Gain planning permission for a huge extension

Some useful tips for avoiding Planning objections and getting on with your neighbours.

How to Form an Effective Contract

Ensuring that you have an enforceable agreement with your contractor (and designer) is an important insurance during a project. Chris Reeves explains how

The Quick Read

• A contract is formed when there is an ‘offer’ to perform a service and a clear acceptance of that offer.
• The contract can take many forms as long as the offer and acceptance are clearly understood by both parties — from verbal agreement through to formal contract.
• Those using a main contractor would be wise to use a formal contract such as the JCT Minor Works, but in all cases, try and get something in writing.

Most projects run without a hitch — the job is completed largely on time, largely defect free and, give or take, on budget. This is generally how the homeowner carrying out a self-build or renovation project will judge success. On the other hand, the solely important outcome for the contractor is whether they have been paid. Of course, your aims, and those of your contractor, are interlinked — problems with quality and scheduling tend to cause issues with payment further down the line.
All very well, but what happens when things go wrong? How do you mitigate for the project that veers off this course? The number of people suffering at the hands of their contractors is significantly below the reality (the bad projects tend to be talked about more) but it is important nonetheless to deal with potential pitfalls and for that, the first port of call is a contract.
A contract sets the rules about what is required in terms of time, quality and cost, and more. Contracts are legally enforceable, but without one, what are the rules? Without a clear understanding of the rules, how certain are we about the outcome of a dispute if it goes to court?
Of course, one of the key things to ascertain is what a contract actually is — what is the legal definition and what is the practical difference between a formal contract, an exchange of letters or simply a handshake.

Definition of a Contract

When considering whether there is a contract in place and what its terms are, the court will look for an ‘offer’ to do the work and a clear acceptance of that offer. It’s worth noting that any offer and/or acceptance does not have to be in writing. Indeed, many projects start and finish on the basis of a verbal contract only — you do not even need a handshake.
The court also requires ‘consideration’ — which is a concept that is easier to recognise than describe. Consideration is what each party is promising to do in return. In the case of building contracts, the consideration is the price to be paid on the homeowner’s side in return for the contractor carrying out the work — or at least promising to carry out the work.
The law also requires that each party to a contract must have the legal capacity to enter into it; some contracts must be in a particular form before they become enforceable — a good example of which is the transfer of land.
Note that the courts will not consider enforcing any contract that includes illegal clauses. I once saw a letter from a contractor to a homeowner that went along the lines of: ‘If you pay me in cash then I will not charge you VAT.’ This would have nullified any formal proceedings in this instance.
An innocent party may also be able to avoid enforcement of a contract if they were duped into entering into it through fraud or a misrepresentation. The law will also make certain contracts void in circumstances where a cooling-off period has not been given, such as a contract made in your home with a contractor. One of the contractor clients I represent was amazed to learn that as he had agreed the price for the job around the kitchen table he could not enforce payment in court as he had not given his customer a cooling-off period before starting work.
For a contract to be enforceable, the court will also want to be satisfied that the parties intended to create a legal relationship. In the context of building work, there should be little difficulty in satisfying this test, but how about work done as a favour? How about the friend that draws up some plans but does not charge you for it, or the mate who helps out with some DIY?

What Makes up a Contract?

Offer
Typically the principle of the builder’s proposal to carry out the work for you.
Acceptance
Your agreement to the builder’s offer. The offer should be made without undue pressure (i.e. giving you time to consider it) and include a cooling-off period
Consideration
Effectively the details of the offer — e.g. price, timescale and scope of the work to be carried out

Forms of Contract

The best practical way of formalising arrangements and offering some protection to the homeowner is to go for a tried and tested form of contract. There are many ‘contracts’ available, but the key to protecting what is important to you (presumably ensuring you get good-quality work within an agreed schedule for the price you were originally told) lies in not only selecting the right form but also ensuring that it is geared to your own project and covers you for any unusual risks.
The first question you should ask when looking to choose an off-the-shelf contract is: “who are the likely parties?” If the contract is between the homeowner and a builder who will be doing all the work, then you can consider one of the standard forms that the builders will be familiar with such as a JCT (Joint Contracts Tribunal) form of contract or the new form of contract published by RIBA (Royal Institute of British Architects).
The JCT contract first appeared in 1903 in a standard form, the terms of which had been agreed between RIBA and the Chartered Institute of Builders — so it’s safe to assume it is well balanced and has really stood the test of time. The JCT publish the Minor Works Building Contract, which costs around £25 plus VAT. The RIBA contract is the new kid on the block and is similarly priced — and as it’s published by RIBA, it is likely to become popular.
All of this assumes you’re using a main contractor to manage the whole project for you, which is only true in something like 40 per cent of all self-build and major renovation projects (the majority will use a main contractor for part of the project, or will use a package supplier, or the work will be carried out by the homeowner directly employing subcontractors).
In the case of the latter, the homeowner will need a contract for each of the subcontractors. The contractual side of things then becomes much more complex. The reason it is complex is that while you may have a contract with each of the subcontractors, there will not be any contract between each of them — and no contract means there are no rules and chaos can reign.
The JCT publish a standard form of trade contract for engaging separate subcontractors, but the term ‘subcontractor’ suggests that each trade is operating under a ‘sub’ contract to a main form of contract between the builder and the homeowner mentioned above. The phrase ‘subcontractor’ is therefore not an accurate one to use in circumstances where the homeowner has decided to employ the trades direct — each trade is in fact a contractor in their own right and each one needs a contract that is geared to the work being done.
How about the specialist suppliers who rely on their own set of terms and conditions? If you give the go ahead to a supplier then the contract’s terms and conditions will apply if they came with the quotation. Each supplier has to be thought of in the same way as a subbie even if they are not fitting the goods being supplied.
Contracts for Design Work
Chances are you’ll be paying your designer a significant amount of money for an agreed service, and as such you’d want to protect this arrangement in the same way you would if you were using a main contractor or individual tradesperson. You should agree with your designer a detailed contact in which both you and the designer are clear about what work is being done and when payment is due.
Most projects have a clear set of milestones, such as the initial design brief, planning permission, detailed design and so on. These should always be outlined, along with the expected costs at each stage, in the initial correspondence.
If you’re using an architect (as opposed to a non-RIBA house designer), particularly for supervision services during the construction, you are likely to be offered a standard form of appointment published by RIBA. The RIBA forms align with ‘work stages’ and the architect will price each stage so the homeowner will know what fees are being incurred for each.
The RIBA form covers the situation where the project has to be abandoned at any particular stage, for example if an application for planning permission is not successful. RIBA publish the Domestic Project Agreement 2010 (2012 revision) which is currently priced at £20 plus VAT.
The next point to consider is whether the standard forms work for you. All the standard forms come with blanks to be filled in such as the commencement date, the price, the names of the parties and so on. You may also want to make some amendments to the terms to suit the particular project requirements. It certainly pays to get advice before signing up.

Email, Letter or Verbal?

Of course, the realities of a building project are that it is quite difficult to raise the issue of formal contracts with a tradesperson. The good news is that many jobs are happily completed on the back of an exchange of letters or other documents such as emails.
Even for simple work packages I would always recommend that when embarking on a building project the homeowner goes for some form of protection in writing —and ensures that the terms are agreed before committing to an agreement.



SOURCE  https://www.homebuilding.co.uk/how-to-form-an-effective-contract/

HAPPY FATHERS DAY!!!

How to Pay your Builder By Steve Whitby

Want to avoid falling out with your builder, or choosing the wrong person for the job? A payment schedule for building works is key

Knowing when and how to pay your builder can be daunting. Is it in your best interests to pay for some of the larger items in advance, for instance?
Personally, I think that if your builder asks you for a large sum of money upfront to buy materials, you have chosen the wrong builder. With the exception of a small deposit, to secure a job within the builder’s work schedule, I believe no monies should be exchanged until a key milestone in the project has been achieved.
Setting up a payment schedule is a fair way to keep both parties appeased and to ensure you both know where you stand.
If your builder is working under a recognised building contract (i.e. a JCT Home Owner Contract) you’ll be protected. If you’re not covered by a contract, you should ensure you agree a payment schedule with your builder before work starts on site.
Professional builders are likely to have enough resources to get to the first scheduled payment, or alternatively, will procure materials on a credit account with builders’ merchants. If you’re asked for upfront monies, especially if it’s the whole amount or a substantial portion, be cautious.

Creating a Payment Schedule with your Builder

On a typical extension or self build, the builder cannot continue past the foundation excavation until it has been passed by a building inspector prior to concreting. This can be used as a key milestone. In most extensions this is completed in a week. Only after the inspection is it safe, in my opinion, to make a payment.
I would suggest these rules be followed, where applicable, to drainage, ground floor slab, electrical first fix, structural steelwork and completion stages — all of these elements require a building inspection.
It is also good practice to retain 5% of the contract value, and release half of the retention at practical completion. To motivate your builder to return to fix any issues that may arise, make a list of any defects five months after practical completion, and send it to the builder. Give them a month to rectify the defects. If the builder fails to return, they are no longer entitled to the final retention payment.
There may, however, be instances where large deposits or payments are required for specialist items such as timber frame or made-to-measure items. To ensure there is a need for the payment, insist the builder provides a copy of the manufacturer’s terms and condition of sale.
My advice is simple: do not pay large amounts upfront, seek recommendations from previous customers, and if in doubt, find an alternative.

By Steve Whitby



source https://www.homebuilding.co.uk/how-to-pay-your-builder/
 

Even Self Builders need a hug sometimes

Routes to Self Build: Managing Your Own Build

 

Mike Hardwick explains the ins and outs of taking on the mantle of project manager yourself

Over the past two articles on routes to self build, I’ve looked at the merits of using a professional project manager or a main contractor to oversee your build. This time, I’m putting the spotlight on what it takes to run a scheme yourself.
Taking on the project management role has the potential to save you significant sums of money – but it’s imperative that you don’t fall into the trap of underestimating the time and commitment you’ll need to put in.
I’m not going to tell you it’s easy to do, because it isn’t. In fact, if things don’t go according to plan it can be very stressful. On the other side of the coin, successfully managing your own self build will be one of the most rewarding things you ever do. So – hard hats and hi-vis jackets on – let’s look at what’s involved.
Why manage your own scheme?
If you have agreed a fixed price with your builder, should it all go pear shaped, you would not expect them to come to you cap-in-hand apologising for the situation while asking for more money to put things right. On the contrary, you’d expect them to sort it out and bear the cost of their mistake.
It follows that when you take on project management yourself the buck, quite literally, stops with you. So you will have to sort out and pay for problems as they arise.
Your job is therefore risk management; namely minimising the chances of mistakes happening and ensuring that what you are paying for is what you wanted. This takes time and attention to detail, which means you will need to be involved in every aspect of the project.
If that sounds like a lot to take on, it’s not all doom and gloom. Many self builders successfully run their own sites despite having no experience at all of the construction industry. If you think about it, we undertake project management in our day-to-day lives all the time.
It’s no different when building a house. You don’t need to know how to lay bricks, but you do need to know where to find a decent bricklaying gang, how much they will cost and when they will be required on site.

Traditional self build Location: Cambridgeshire Details: The Searles shared project management duties for their scheme, with Rob organising contractors and day-to-day management and Sandra overseeing the finances. They took a shell build route, using Scandia Hus to design and erect the timber frame superstructure, and kept their architect on board to help ensure follow-on trades stayed true to the original design. The 313m2 house, which includes a basement, was completed ahead of schedule in just 46 weeks at a cost of £548,398 (plus £315,000 for the land). It’s now valued at £950,000. Photo: Matt Johnston A Package Home

Going it alone
If you are feeling brave and have the time, you can source and hire all the individual trades yourself. If you hire good tradesmen and not just the cheapest people you can find, you will soon see that building a typical family house isn’t rocket science.
You’ll be working with people who do it all the time, so managing them can be relatively straightforward. Your main role will be co-ordinating everyone so they are in the right place at the right time, making sure they do what they’re supposed to and, if so, paying them on time for work they’ve done and the materials used.
Quality control
One of the biggest worries with a self-managed build is that you may not realise when a job is not being done correctly until it is too late. We all have a different take on what ‘good’ looks like.
Some will be perfectionists railing at every perceived defect and stray blob of mortar, while others will be happy just to see reasonable progress being made every day.
One way of gaining reassurance is to hire a ‘contract oversight’ project manager to act as your eyes and ears on the site. He or she will conduct regular visits and produce reports for a small percentage of the projected construction cost.
Don’t forget that building control and your structural warranty provider will be checking the essential work is being done correctly as well – so it’s quite hard to build a structurally poor house these days.

Demolish & rebuild Location: Hertfordshire Details: Mak and Maryam Baradaran originally appointed a general builder to oversee their project. But when they returned from a family emergency, having left plans and clear instructions with the team, progress wasn’t up to scratch. “One wall had been built in the wrong place and there were problems with some of the steelwork,” says Mak, who quickly dismissed the workforce and took over the project management himself. Mak worked tirelessly to source the best and most cost-effective materials for his high-quality home. The couple spent £325,000 on the original house and £340,000 on the rebuild, and now have a tailor-made home valued at £1,200,000. Photo: Philip Raby A Modern Rebuild

The right approach
Self-managing a project means that you will be the boss. You choose who gets hired and, if necessary, who is not up to the job and needs to go. You’ve almost certainly worked for a variety of people at different times and I bet you can recall who was good to work for and who wasn’t.
Be more like the former and I’d suggest you would get better results from your trades, as they’ll enjoy being on your job. Act more like the latter and don’t be surprised if nobody wants to turn up or people rush the work in order to get away.
I think that one of the best ways to ensure a successful self build is to make your site a safe and pleasant working environment. Keep it clean, tidy and organised, supply a site hut and the facilities to make a cup of tea and provide a good stock of biscuits.
Say thanks for work done well and accept that things will sometimes go awry; ‘stuff’ will happen on even the best managed sites. Just when you’ve solved one problem, the next issue won’t be far away – and it’s this that will take up your time.
When things do go wrong, don’t assume it’s always wilful neglect or incompetence. Most trades will be striving to do good work for you because they will be looking to you for a reference for their next job.
If something goes wrong it’s probably down to poor communication, so be clear about what needs to be done, who’s doing it and to what standard.
Should I take the plunge?
If you are fairly well organised, have half-decent communications skills and can deal with the inevitable stress, then by all means, give self project-management a go.
I think common sense and a sense of humour are two of the most important qualities you need – and if you can bring these to the project, you may find you have the time of your life. If you fear you’ll struggle in any of these areas, then your best bet will probably be to refer back to my previous two articles in this series and leave the project management in the hands of the professionals.


source http://www.self-build.co.uk/routes-self-build-managing-your-own-build

 

Cost Guide: Garages & Driveways

How much will it cost to build a garage and lay a driveway? Price the job with Build It's in-depth guide

External works and ancillary buildings (such as garages) are surely the most overlooked of all the costs on a home building project. These elements are frequently under-budgeted in the first place, plus people’s cash streams are often depleted by the time it comes to getting the landscaping done.
In fairness, if you’re taking a long-term approach then it’s often the right choice to allocate the vast majority of your funds to the principal house. But if you want to finish, move in and immediately enjoy your new home’s facilities to the fullest, then you should make a concerted effort to preserve your external works budget. And bear in mind, this stage of your project is likely to cost more than you think.
 
Building a typical garage
A detached double garage, built in matching bricks and tiles to the main house, may well cost you upwards of £18,000, as per the 'cost guide' table below.

COST GUIDE Typical 36m2 Double Garage
Building element	Cost
Trench fill foundations	£2,520
Lightly reinforced ground-bearing slab and backfill	£2,700
External walls, piers, steelwork and lintels	£3,900
Roof structure	£1,190
Roof covering (felt, battens and tiles)	£1,260
Carpentry (soffits, fascia, barge board and gable claddings)	£1,350
Drainage	£600
Guttering	£600
Garage doors, access door and window	£3,000
Electrical provision	£1,000
Extras (decoration, security etc)	£500
Total cost for double garage	£18,620

These costs are based on a specification that includes basic dimensions of 6m (wide) x 6m (deep) x 2.5m (high), a shallow pitched (25°) concrete tiled roof, half brick-thick external walls with brick piers, a simple ground floor slab and trench fill foundations (to a standard 1m depth). The breakdown also assumes two single garage doors, a personal door and window, simple electrical supply and some rainwater drainage.
It’s easy to see how this specification could be increased by changing the external walls to cavity construction, adding some insulation, sealing the floor, raising the roof pitch, including a smarter roof covering, adding some cold water plumbing etc. Many people would consider these quite normal requirements for a modern garage – and they could easily see the price escalate to £25,000 plus.
What’s more, the costs above are given on the basis of you project managing the build (pulling all of the trades together yourselves). If you leave it to a main contractor, you’ll need to add a management fee on top. In addition, don’t forget to add VAT if your project doesn’t qualify for a zero rated status (for example if you’re adding an outbuilding to an existing property, rather than creating a new home from scratch).
With a new build or major refurbishment project, some folks sensibly get their garages built first on site. This not only helps you to erect the structure to the original budget, but the building will also make fabulous dry storage facilities for many of your other materials throughout the project. It could also serve as an area for temporary site office functions. It all really depends on the project’s logistics and how much access space there will still be once the garage has been built.


Driveways
Depending on the prevailing soil conditions on site, your driveway will need a proper specification in order to take all reasonable vehicle loads, effectively shed surface water and prevent local settlement and surface erosion.
Unless you’re building on exposed bedrock, some excavation for reduced levels (digging down around 250-300mm), geotextile membranes and filling with compacted hard-core will be necessary. This ground work will come in at about £18-£20 per m2. Thereafter, the choice of topping and finishes is up to you.
Concrete edgings set in lean-mix concrete can look neat and, in some cases, will be essential to stop the spread of your finishing material. Budget around £10-£12 per linear metre for this. Pea shingle (gravel) will be the cheapest surface option. It can easily be spread yourself and could cost as little at £4 per m2 depending on the thickness you choose.
Moving up the scale, tarmac is best built up in layers of circa 40mm thicknesses, with larger aggregate being used for the base course. Each layer will be circa £15 per m2 upwards and two well-compacted coats will always deliver a better result than one.
Concrete block paving is a popular choice. Prices start from about £28 per m2 for a typical installation loose-laid on a 50mm sharp sand blinding layer with fine sand brushed between the joints. This can rise to circa £35-£40 per m2 for coloured varieties laid in a herringbone (or similarly decorative) pattern.
Whatever covering you choose, it’s important to be clear about how your surface water will be managed either through a porous paved option, traditional gullies or some of the more sophisticated attenuation systems, all of which can only be priced once you’ve decided your final details.
Premiums will, of course, apply to small or complex areas. If you are going to need a builder to coordinate all of the above for you then you must allow for their management, overheads and profit on top.




source http://www.self-build.co.uk/cost-guide-garages-driveways
 

Permitted development rights explained If you’re improving your home, find out what work you can do without planning permission.

Permitted development rights explained

If you’re improving your home, find out what work you can do without planning permission.

By Sine Fleet

  

 

What are permitted development rights?

Until 30 May 2016, permitted development (PD) rights provide automatic planning permission for certain alterations and extensions to most houses. To carry out work within PD, your project must conform to the current criteria, so either check with your local planning authority (LPA) before carrying out the works, or have a qualified surveyor confirm that they are in order.
Many changes can be made to a house within PD, with various types of extension permitted. For a full guide to what’s possible, visit the government planning website, planningportal.co.uk.

Home improvements – what can I do?

• Build a porch
• Carry out internal alterations
• Convert the loft space, cellar or garage
• Install microgeneration equipment, such as solar panels (not including wind turbines)
• Put up satellite dishes and antennae
• Install rooflights or dormer windows
• Put in new doors or windows

Did you know…

• PD rights are updated regularly, so ask your
• LPA for the latest details
• Apartments are not included under PD, nor balconies, verandas and platforms (above 30cm)
• PD doesn’t automatically apply to Conservation Areas or listed buildings
• PD rules vary in England, Wales, Northern Ireland and Scotland, and can differ across local authorities

Extension guidelines

• Keep your extension no higher than the original roof
• Single-storey rear extensions must not extend more than three metres beyond the rear wall of an attached house, or four metres if detached*, and within a maximum height of four metres
• Two-storey extensions must not be closer than seven metres to the rear boundary 
• The roof pitch of extensions higher than one storey should match the existing house
• Build in the same, or similar material to the existing house
• Extensions must not go beyond the principal or side elevation fronting a highway
• Side extensions must be single-storey, no higher than four metres, and no wider than half of the original building
• In designated areas, side extensions require planning permission and rear extensions must be single-storey
• An extension must not result in more than half the garden or land being covered
• Upper-floor, side-facing windows must be obscure-glazed, and any opening part must be 1.7m above the room’s floor

*Six metres and eight metres respectively until 30 May 2016, as part of the neighbour consultation scheme. 
See the Planning Portal for more information
Featured image: A rear extension within permitted development rights. Photograph by Andrew Beasley.

source https://www.realhomesmagazine.co.uk/advice/permitted-development-rights-explained/